Silhouettes

Cascades appeared on lapels, waistcoats, as well as diagonally on blouses and trousers. The traditional choli turned into a swirly blouse while two-tone sari drapes were most favoured. The stitched sari gowns have now turned into popular items, while the elasticized skirt and long Tees of the 70s made an appearance. The petal skirt was a hot favourite, while boxy shapes for boleros and cutouts for apron tops will make news. Churidars were replaced by tights or leggings while the bandage dress, top or even trousers made news.

Trousers went for fuller volumes with Samurai, Turkish or Afghan pants, low crotches, Jodhpuris and of course the dhoti pants. The kimono and dolman sleeves were the perfect choice for summer with kaftans, shifts, sheaths, trapeze, sacks and tent shapes being ideal hot weather options. Shoulders were more exaggerated and sleeves were experimented on giving them more emphasis. Sheer backs were seen on many designer garments while it is the return of the 70s slinky gown again.

The inspiration was three fold. From Africa it was the countries of Sudan and Ghana both known for their colour and prints; from America it was the underground movement of the 1970s and from Paris it was the roaring 20s era. Bringing them together seamlessly in one collection, Sabyasachi Mukherjee moved away from his traditional sari, lehenga, choli image and went full throttle into western and fusion wear to show a line of separates which could be mixed and matched or just worn as the buyer wished. There was the usual mix of fabrics which Sabyasachi is so good at, so chiffon, silk, cotton, georgette, net and khadi came together along with a mélange of prints that ranged from floral to checks and abstract as well as ethnic motifs for prints and texturing. The styling was very interesting with five different garments at times coming together to form a perfect story – trousers, skirt, blouse, waistcoat and jacket falling into place rather well.

While colour choice was muted with brown, rust, teal, indigo with hints of saffron and touches of pink; the embellishments glittered - at times covering the full skirt or tunic. The elasticized tube skirt and dress were lean in shape having a marked retro look but the flouncy Charleston dresses livened up the scene when worn with pants. Sheer skirts with lavish work were seen over tights while wrap jackets, asymmetric gilets and lace edged blouses had touches of the three themes. From casual mix and match to very formal options, Sabyasachi showed a more western fusion line staying away from his favourite saris. The accessories, very African in nature with bandana wrapped heads of the models, completed the look of the muse trio.

It was a slightly adventurous Sabyasachi Mukherjee that the audience saw but one that offered several styling and creative options to the wearer.

Manish Malhotra aimed to show his love for his country and that was the noble thought that was revealed. Having travelled the world he decided to present a perfect blend of the East and West resort line with his inspiration the global playground of the rich and famous – St Tropez. What appeared in the collection was a lot of glitter and abundance of net some of it used rather creatively and a good collection of men’s ethnic bundgala jackets with discreet detailing.

But when it came to the fabric choice, Manish tends to take the easy way instead of the haute way. Net was the base no doubt and so was chiffon and linen and blends along with satin with lace but a solitary multicoloured kaleidoscopic geometric print design which was used in three colour ways was tiresome on the senses.

Why is it that Manish insists on zeroing in on one fabric in different colours for his shows? In the past there was a print that appeared throughout the show making it quite boring. Of course he used it differently – at times as the lining under a net or as a full circle anarkali kurta and at other times as an asymmetric beach mini and still on other occasions as a blouse. But how much of the same thing can one see in one show and that too a rather ordinary jersey with nothing to rave about?

The colours were pastel pinks, peaches, white, pale blue, lemon with a touch of ombre effect and the net appeared for saris with wide embroidered borders or as leggings with sparkling shimmer. There were a few interesting pieces like the cowl neck choli, kaftans with side pleating, a satin blouson jumpsuit, sheer net dhoti pants with a frothy top, and net saris worn with trousers or leggings, swirling trapeze tops and kurtas that had metres of net.

It was the men’s wear that had some good design directions as the bundgala was the centre of the collection and the treatment given to it was discreet with a different collar style for each and button closures that were imaginatively placed in one, two or even groups of 3. Piping
edged the collars, pockets and plackets and the men’s shirts were stylish in an understated manner with rows of faggoting on the billowy sleeves and narrow lace insets in front.

There was a marked Bollywood touch in the women’s wear though some of it was far too daring even for the big screen divas. There was glitz and glamour but haven’t we seen swirling kurtas in most of Manish Malhotra’s collections along with solitary repetitive prints?

A fresh look could help, since the Manish Malhotra following is envious as seen by the standing room only show.

The first ever men’s week, the Van Heusen India Men’s Week showcased an amazing myriad of clothing options for the Indian male. The metamorphosis visible was a style incorporating Indian elements instead of simply aping western codes. Men can breath easy now, since the necktie was missing or carefully camouflaged in tone on tone shades. The silhouette is decidedly slim, with short fitted jackets and narrow pants. Velvet is in vogue and was seen even at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week besides other global runways.

Bring out that Kolhapuri chappal, and team it with a suit. That is now so very fashionable, besides being hugely practical for our weather. Look out for mauve and pinks and oranges for shirts and bottoms.