Forty years in, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla don't do subtlety — and their anniversary night at Mubarak Baug proved it. Four decades of reviving Chikankari, layering Zardozi and treating embroidery like architecture called for a guest list that could match the scale: the Ambani women in full couture regalia, Dimple Kapadia rewriting the rules of the pallu, and a runway resurrecting the '90s supermodel era. Here's how everyone showed up.
A Night Celebrating Four Decades of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla
The celebrations at Mubarak Baug were more than a star-studded evening. They marked 40 years of Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, whose design journey has been defined by an unapologetic love for Indian craftsmanship, from intricate Chikankari and Zardozi to mirror work and elaborate embroidery.
The guest list reflected that legacy, bringing together Bollywood veterans, fashion insiders, the Ambani family and a new generation of style personalities. From elaborate lehengas and statement saris to contemporary couture silhouettes, the evening became a showcase of the many ways Indian craftsmanship can be interpreted today.
The celebrations also looked back at the designers' history, with '90s supermodels returning to the runway alongside contemporary faces. It was a fitting tribute to a design house that has remained synonymous with maximalism, intricate detailing and timeless Indian glamour.
Decoding the Night’s Standout Looks
From timeless saris to statement-making couture, the guest list brought its own interpretation of glamour. Here are the standout looks that made the night memorable.
Dimple Kapadia Rewrites the Drape
Old-school glamour, new-school logic. Dimple Kapadia's cream saree came embroidered edge to edge with florals, vines and paisley, anchored by a matching cape that turned the whole look into a single sculpted silhouette. The real flex, though, was in the draping, she skipped the classic Nivi style and pulled her pallu from back to front over the right shoulder instead of the left, a small rebellion that changed the entire line of the outfit.
A multi-layered pearl-and-diamond necklace and her signature blowout kept the rest of the look quiet enough to let the drape do the talking.
Sonam Kapoor Goes Regal, Not Loud
Sonam Kapoor Ahuja's ivory chikankari anarkali proved restraint can still be a showstopper. Worn with double dupattas and finished with statement kaunati danglers, the look leaned on texture over embellishment, proof that AJSK's craft-first philosophy doesn't need volume to land.
Heart-shaped tasseled earrings and a middle part gave it a softness that felt more heirloom than headline.
Radhika Merchant's Graceful Monochrome Fusion
Radhika Merchant brought a distinctive fusion aesthetic to the celebrations in an embroidered jacket-style top paired with a printed skirt. Floral motifs added a delicate touch, while the structured jacket gave the fluid silhouette a contemporary edge.
The look reflected Radhika's knack for balancing traditional craftsmanship with modern styling.
Nita Ambani's Art Deco-Inspired Saree
Nita Ambani opted for an elegant sari featuring a velvet border with laser-cut geometric motifs. Her full-sleeved blouse continued the Art Deco-inspired design with trellis patterns across the bodice and sleeves.
She accessorised with a red corded diamond necklace, statement dangler earrings and a cocktail ring. Kohl-lined eyes, a red bindi and voluminous side-swept waves completed the look.
Shloka Mehta's Ivory Elegance
Shloka Mehta, known for her polished yet understated approach to Indian couture, opted for an elegant ivory-and-gold outfit that beautifully balanced traditional craftsmanship with modern tailoring. Her outfit featured a heavily embroidered elbow-length top paired with wide-leg palazzo trousers and a coordinating draped dupatta.
The intricate detailing stood out against the soft ivory palette, while the relaxed silhouette gave the traditional-inspired outfit a contemporary edge. The look was quintessentially Shloka — sophisticated, refined and rooted in Indian craftsmanship without feeling overly ornate.
Genelia Deshmukh Makes a Case for the Braid
Genelia Deshmukh's kurta was ethereal enough on its own, but it was the hair that elevated the look into something worth stopping for, a long braid dressed up with a jada patti and gajra, finished with oversized statement danglers. It's the kind of styling that photographs like tradition but reads, in person, as quiet confidence.
Navya Naveli Nanda Brings the Drama Down a Notch — Sort Of
A gold mini dress with a fishscale-patterned skirt is not a subtle choice, and Navya Naveli Nanda didn't try to make it one.
What kept it from tipping into costume territory was the styling around it: barely-there make-up, a simple side part, embellished ombré pumps, and almost no jewellery. The dress got to be the whole sentence.
Neetu Kapoor Lets the Craft Speak Quietly
Neetu Kapoor's ivory-and-beige outfit worked in whispers, a semi-sheer tunic, delicate lace cutouts, and cropped trousers that felt considered rather than fussy.
Emerald and diamond earrings supplied the only real sparkle, proof that AJSK's design language scales down as gracefully as it scales up.
Asha Parekh Brings Timeless Elegance
Veteran actor Asha Parekh added a touch of old-school glamour to the celebrations in a graceful pastel sari paired with striking emerald jewellery.
Her understated elegance felt perfectly at home at an evening dedicated to four decades of Indian couture and craftsmanship.
Kusha Kapila Pulls a Look Out of the Archive
Kusha Kapila skipped anything new entirely, resurrecting a 2010 backless gown with a plunging neckline, a trailing hem, and embroidery dense enough to double as a time capsule.
A choker, statement studs, cocktail rings and a haath phool filled in the jewellery box, while a messy middle-parted braid kept the whole thing from feeling too precious.
Komal Pandey and Siddharth Don't Do Subtle
If everyone else was negotiating with restraint, Komal Pandey and Siddharth opted out of the conversation entirely.
Her fuchsia lehenga, paired with a heavily embellished gold bandeau, went full maximalist; his ivory sherwani was the only thing standing between the couple and total sensory overload — in the best way.
Natasa Stankovic's Mermaid Glamour
Natasa Stankovic looked ravishing in a figure-hugging mermaid-cut lehenga paired with a corset-style top. The sculpted silhouette accentuated the drama of the ensemble, while the intricate embellishments added a glamorous couture finish.
Breaking Dress Code, On Purpose
Not everyone came dressed for the occasion, and that was the point. Richa Chadha and Ali Fazal opted for relaxed, off-duty outfits that stood out precisely because they refused to compete with the couture around them. Orry, meanwhile, showed up in a retro orange shirt and matching polka-dot trouser, less red carpet, more disco throwback.
The Runway Turns Into a Time Machine
The nostalgia didn't stop at the guest list. Models from the '90s heyday; Rakshanda Khan, Rahul Dev, Diandra Soares and Carol Gracias among them, walked the ramp again, turning the show into a reunion as much as a retrospective. Natasa Stanković and Aleksandar Alex Ilić closed things out in coordinated black-and-silver, a sleek, modern counterpoint to the vintage energy around them.
Forty Years, One Design Philosophy
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla met through a mutual friend in 1986 and built an empire on the idea that Indian craft; Chikankari, Zardozi, mirror work, Resham embroidery, deserved a couture stage. Four decades, several Bollywood generations and a client list running from Amitabh Bachchan to Beyoncé later, this anniversary wasn't just a party. It was a reminder that maximalism, done right, ages better than trends ever do.
